Hola! Bienvenidos a Fabulous Journeys! As you can tell, I’m so excited to write about this vibrant place that I had to speak in its mother tongue. I visited the Andalusian region of Spain a couple of years ago, and I must say that it’s one of my favourite places in the world to date. This post will focus on the city of Seville.

Viva Sevilla!

Seville is the capital of the Andalusian region of Spain. I arrived in this Moorish-influenced city by train from Madrid. It was a two and a half hour train journey from Madrid Atocha station, and the trains are really fast! I was so amazed by the high speed and the service of the transport in Spain, as I thought it would be delayed half the time, or something similar to England! It’s much better than the trains in England, and is comparable to high-tech countries like Japan! It’s also a great way to see the countryside of Spain. I saw so much olive trees and small villages that looked very interesting. It could well have been nice to drive all the way there.

Before I arrived in Seville, I didn’t know what to expect of the place. My brother-in-law and sister have been around the Andalucian region a few times on their previous holidays, and all they can tell me is to go to Granada and see the Alhambra. They didn’t seem to rave about Seville, so I just didn’t expect much of the place apart from being my first destination in the Andalucian region. It is the biggest city in the region and Spain’s fourth largest city after all, so I thought it would be just another city. Well, was I so wrong!

Oranges and Moorishness

When I arrived in Seville, the very first thing I noticed was the sheer number of orange trees that dot the streets. The orange trees were bearing fruit, and it was such a delight to see them! Rows and rows of orange trees and I really got tempted to just pick one from the tree and eat it! I did in the end, but perhaps there is a reason why they’re just on the tree.. It wasn’t yet ripe enough for people to pick them out! Anyway, I still begrudgingly finished in all, as I didn’t want to waste the orange..

One very evident feature of Seville is the Moorish architecture around the city’s ancient monuments and palaces. There is so much Moorish influence in the area that you can immediately distinguish the feel of the place from Madrid or Toledo in the northern part where I first started my trip in Spain. I somehow feel as if I’m in some Middle Eastern city with all the intricate murals, the courtyards, and the minarets. The Moors settled in this area for centuries before they were driven away by the Castillans in the formation of the Kingdom of Spain in the 1400s. It’s a great feature of the Andalucian region, and a testament to its rich history. Here are some of the great sights to see in Seville:

Alcazar

In the city centre of Seville, you will find the old Moorish fortress called the Alcazar. From the outside, you’ll find that it’s all just covered by this huge plain stone wall that looks like a fortress. It does look intriguing going through the narrow alleyways in order to get to the Plaza del Truinfo where the entrance is. It doesn’t look as grand from that point, but the minute you step in, it’s a completely different world. The palace is actually huge and the decors are just a feast to the senses! The level of detail on the carvings on the walls and the ceilings with ancient Arabic script forming patterns are just fascinating to look at! There are also lots of examples of marble inlaying patterns on the walls and the floors that have been so immaculately done, and it is truly a work of art. The Alcazar also has lots of courtyards with a nice fountain in the middle. A big portion of the palace is the original Moorish structure, though there is a part that has been built after the Moorish era. It’s now a museum showcasing items used by the Spanish royalty. There is also a nice botanical garden inside the complex, and a nice big fountain in between. This is a definite must-see when you are in Seville.

La Giralda

This cathedral on the other side of Plaza del Truinfo, used to be a mosque, and is now converted into a great cathedral. The Giralda refers to the tower that is distinctive of the church, and is the living reminder of the mosque that used to stand in that place. The tower has all the Moorish carvings on it and is really great to look at.

Plaza de España

This complex was built for the Expo 1929, and showcases the different regions of Spain. It’s a grand building with a huge fountain on the entrance. At the lower level, you will find tiles on the walls with descriptions of the various regions of Spain and their specialties. It’s a great area to stroll around, and has a romantic feel to it. There are horse-drawn carriages that offer tourists a tour around the city.

Torre Del Oro, Plaza de Toro and Guadalquivir River

The city of Seville sits on the banks of the Guadalquivir River, and an esplanade/walkway has been created along the riverbanks, which makes for a good stroll. On the esplanade, you will find the Torre Del Oro, an old Moorish watchtower that was used for defensive purposes by the Moors. You will find some modern sculptures along this esplanade, and there is also a bridge that crosses to the other side of the river. On the corner of the esplanade and a bridge is a small churros shop where I managed to indulge into this delicious Spanish snack with a rich chocolate dip!

If you go a block back from the esplanade, you will find the Plaza de Toro, the bullring and the place where they have the toro (bullfight). At the time I visited, they didn’t have any bullfights happening, so you may have to watch out when they have those. They do offer a guided tour inside the ring and it showcases the various matadors through the years and their costumes. It’s a great insight into that side of the Spanish culture.

Flamenco Show

Flamenco dancer

Now, I nearly forgot to put this in, but this is another must-see if you’re in Seville. There are several bars offering a Flamenco show, so make sure you find a good reputable one. It’s a very fascinating dance. It’s both lively, upbeat, yet the music has a degree of melancholy in it. It’s one of Spain’s most well-known traditional dance. I’m not really into dancing, but the Flamenco show and the Tango show in Argentina would be one of those dance shows that I’d totally recommend to see. I have a short video here I took during the Flamenco show:

Seville has a lot of charm, and one that shouldn’t be missed when travelling to the Andalucian region. I hadn’t planned to stay long in Seville, but now that I’ve seen it, I know what I can expect out of this great southern Spanish city.

Til the next Fabulous Journeys!

Sponsored Links:

The Crimson Castle

It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, it is well-known, yet it’s not as popular as the likes of the Taj Mahal, the pyramids of Giza, the Angkor Wat or Machu Picchu. It’s not on the front covers of your travel brochures (apart from those for that region). Books and poems have been written about it, and several writers over the centuries have marvelled at this magnificent palace fortress. I’m talking about the Alhambra, a 14th century Moorish palace/fortress overlooking majestically on the city of Granada in southern Spain.

Before my visit, I’ve heard of stories from friends of how great this place is, and that I should at least once see it for myself. Yet, I’ve only heard of this mentioned once in my Medieval History class, and never from any travel magazines, travel agents or the news. When you mention Spain, the Alhambra is not exactly one of the first things that people talk about (it’s usually the sun, beaches, tapas, Sangria, party islands, running of the bulls, Tomato festival, Barcelona, Madrid, to name a few..). As such, I didn’t think much of it until I finally got to the city of Granada in the Andalucian region of Spain.

Walking around Granada itself is a fascinating experience. It’s like walking into medieval Spain where there are a lot of the Moorish influence still evident, yet you don’t hear anyone speak Arabic. The narrow cobble-stoned streets and the Moorish-styled buildings with a courtyard in the middle, the water features that are ever-present in the middle of it… It’s one of the very special places in Spain to visit!

Visiting the Alhambra is a must when in Granada. The minute I saw the intricate design and symmetry of the palaces and the beautifully laid-out gardens, I then realised why so many poets and writers over the centuries fell in love with it. To make the most and enjoy of your visit, I have a few handy tips :

1.) BE THERE EARLY! – Preservation is of the utmost importance for this fortress, and to reduce the impact of tourists visiting the site, they have a limited number of tourists that are allowed inside the fortress, and there is also a section inside the complex that they only allow people to enter up to a certain time. You have to be by the gates of the Alhambra by 8:30AM at the latest, so you can get tickets to enter the Generalife. Entry into the Generalife is only until 9AM. The Generalife is one of the most interesting sites in the complex, and is a must-see. It’s possibly the most beautiful garden palace I’ve seen so far! This is located at the far end of the complex. As the complex is quite big, it might take 15 minutes to walk from the main gates to the entrance to Generalife.  Thus, when you get to the Alhambra, go straight to the Generalife and check it out first.

2.) If you’re travelling alone, it does pay to hire out their audio guide. This gives you a better appreciation of the fortress-palace, its history, architecture and its beauty. Also, if you’re going during winter, it is quite cold (it was probably the coldest part of Spain that I’ve been to during my trip) so be prepared for it.

3.) Make the most of the entire complex as it is fascinating! It also offers a great view of the city of Granada, as it sits on a hill facing the city. There are a number of buildings and courtyards to explore, and it took me a little over half a day to relish all of it. Check out these spots:

• Chamber of the Lions (Cuarto de los Leones) – don’t worry, they don’t have real hungry lions waiting to devour tourists! It’s a courtyard with a 6-lion fountain in the middle, and braided with narrow water features along the courtyard flowing from the fountain. The building around it has some awesome moorish decor!
• Court of the Myrtles – this has a long pool in the middle of the courtyard, and the reflection of the Tower of Comares on the pool makes it really stunning!
• Hall of the Abencerrajes – look to the ceiling of the hall and you will be amazed of the star-shaped dome with all the intricate carvings
• Towers of the Homenaje (Homage) and the Quebrada – there is a maze before you get to the towers, and this was designed to distract any invaders from getting to the towers. There is a magnificent view of Granada from here, and the Sierra Nevada.
• Water features all over the Alhambra – you will notice that there is so much water around this fortress-palace. There are numerous fountains, pools,

4.) After visiting the Alhambra, make sure you make your way to the Albaycin (or Albayzin), the old Moorish quarters on the opposite hill facing the Alhambra. Climb through the hilly suburb, enjoy the beautiful houses around, and once you get to the top, there is a lookout point called Mirador de San Nicolas where you can get a magnificent view of the Alhambra from the outside! There is a nice outdoor cafe there and you can sit out and enjoy the view of Granada and the Alhambra. It’s really one of the best spot I’ve found to chill out and enjoy a magnificent scenery!

With that, I leave you with a poem I found from Mexican poet Francisco de Icaza:

Give him alms, woman,

For life holds no greater affliction

Than that of being

Blind in Granada.

Til the next Fabulous Journey!