The Crimson Castle

It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, it is well-known, yet it’s not as popular as the likes of the Taj Mahal, the pyramids of Giza, the Angkor Wat or Machu Picchu. It’s not on the front covers of your travel brochures (apart from those for that region). Books and poems have been written about it, and several writers over the centuries have marvelled at this magnificent palace fortress. I’m talking about the Alhambra, a 14th century Moorish palace/fortress overlooking majestically on the city of Granada in southern Spain.

Before my visit, I’ve heard of stories from friends of how great this place is, and that I should at least once see it for myself. Yet, I’ve only heard of this mentioned once in my Medieval History class, and never from any travel magazines, travel agents or the news. When you mention Spain, the Alhambra is not exactly one of the first things that people talk about (it’s usually the sun, beaches, tapas, Sangria, party islands, running of the bulls, Tomato festival, Barcelona, Madrid, to name a few..). As such, I didn’t think much of it until I finally got to the city of Granada in the Andalucian region of Spain.

Walking around Granada itself is a fascinating experience. It’s like walking into medieval Spain where there are a lot of the Moorish influence still evident, yet you don’t hear anyone speak Arabic. The narrow cobble-stoned streets and the Moorish-styled buildings with a courtyard in the middle, the water features that are ever-present in the middle of it… It’s one of the very special places in Spain to visit!

Visiting the Alhambra is a must when in Granada. The minute I saw the intricate design and symmetry of the palaces and the beautifully laid-out gardens, I then realised why so many poets and writers over the centuries fell in love with it. To make the most and enjoy of your visit, I have a few handy tips :

1.) BE THERE EARLY! – Preservation is of the utmost importance for this fortress, and to reduce the impact of tourists visiting the site, they have a limited number of tourists that are allowed inside the fortress, and there is also a section inside the complex that they only allow people to enter up to a certain time. You have to be by the gates of the Alhambra by 8:30AM at the latest, so you can get tickets to enter the Generalife. Entry into the Generalife is only until 9AM. The Generalife is one of the most interesting sites in the complex, and is a must-see. It’s possibly the most beautiful garden palace I’ve seen so far! This is located at the far end of the complex. As the complex is quite big, it might take 15 minutes to walk from the main gates to the entrance to Generalife.  Thus, when you get to the Alhambra, go straight to the Generalife and check it out first.

2.) If you’re travelling alone, it does pay to hire out their audio guide. This gives you a better appreciation of the fortress-palace, its history, architecture and its beauty. Also, if you’re going during winter, it is quite cold (it was probably the coldest part of Spain that I’ve been to during my trip) so be prepared for it.

3.) Make the most of the entire complex as it is fascinating! It also offers a great view of the city of Granada, as it sits on a hill facing the city. There are a number of buildings and courtyards to explore, and it took me a little over half a day to relish all of it. Check out these spots:

• Chamber of the Lions (Cuarto de los Leones) – don’t worry, they don’t have real hungry lions waiting to devour tourists! It’s a courtyard with a 6-lion fountain in the middle, and braided with narrow water features along the courtyard flowing from the fountain. The building around it has some awesome moorish decor!
• Court of the Myrtles – this has a long pool in the middle of the courtyard, and the reflection of the Tower of Comares on the pool makes it really stunning!
• Hall of the Abencerrajes – look to the ceiling of the hall and you will be amazed of the star-shaped dome with all the intricate carvings
• Towers of the Homenaje (Homage) and the Quebrada – there is a maze before you get to the towers, and this was designed to distract any invaders from getting to the towers. There is a magnificent view of Granada from here, and the Sierra Nevada.
• Water features all over the Alhambra – you will notice that there is so much water around this fortress-palace. There are numerous fountains, pools,

4.) After visiting the Alhambra, make sure you make your way to the Albaycin (or Albayzin), the old Moorish quarters on the opposite hill facing the Alhambra. Climb through the hilly suburb, enjoy the beautiful houses around, and once you get to the top, there is a lookout point called Mirador de San Nicolas where you can get a magnificent view of the Alhambra from the outside! There is a nice outdoor cafe there and you can sit out and enjoy the view of Granada and the Alhambra. It’s really one of the best spot I’ve found to chill out and enjoy a magnificent scenery!

With that, I leave you with a poem I found from Mexican poet Francisco de Icaza:

Give him alms, woman,

For life holds no greater affliction

Than that of being

Blind in Granada.

Til the next Fabulous Journey!